Soil Preparation & Planting, For Perennial Beds

Evaluate Your Site and Soil:

                Russell’s sells a full range of perennials to suit almost any site. Selecting plants to suit your conditions rather than fighting your site will result in more successful and pleasant gardening. Consider the following when making your selection:

A) timing and hours of sunlight             e) hardiness

b) Soil moisture                                             f) bloom time

c) Height spread color and texture       g) winter drainage
                                                                             (e.g. lavender is often

d) Maintenance requirements                killed by winter wet rather
                                                                               than cold)

               

                Studies show that about 80% of all plant problems are related to poor soil. We highly recommend a soil test to determine the best amendments for your soil. Soil preparation generally takes place in the spring or fall. Whatever the season, don’t work the ground if it is too wet or too dry. To determine if it is a good time to dig, squeeze a fistful of soil in your hand; it should form a ball which crumbles easily at a touch. The site you choose should be fairly level, well-drained and a manageable size.

Soil Preparation

                Starting a flower bed from scratch involves a lot of hard work, but pays off in the form of healthier, more productive plants. Begin by removing the layer of sod, weeds, or whatever else might be growing there. Get rid of rocks and loosen the soil to a depth of eight to twelve inches with a spading fork or nursery spade. (Obviously this work is made a lot easier if you have a rot tiller!)  “Double-digging” is an effective method of soil preparation whereby the soil is worked to a depth of almost two feet. Hard-packed subsoil should at least be broken up with a pitchfork. Avoid walking on your soil after digging.

The ideal soil for most perennials is well-drained, loamy, high in organic matter,

and with a neutral to slightly acidic (pH 6.0 to 7.5). Very few sites are blessed with such perfect conditions, so when you dig, do what you can to improve the soil. The addition of organic matter improves drainage, aeration, moisture retention, and nutrient availability.

                Spread a generous layer (up to 6 inches) of compost or well-rotted manure over the newly-spaded bed. Take care when using manure. Fresh manure should be composted or applied the fall prior to planting to reduce the risk of burning tender roots. Peat does not add nutrients but can improve soil structure and help prevent compaction.

                To raise the soil pH of average garden soil one point, apply pelletized lime at a rate of about 4 lbs/ 100 sq. ft.  Very sandy soil needs less lime, while heavy clay soil requires about 30% more. All these amendments should be thoroughly mixed into the soil . Rake the bed level, allow the soil to settle, and, just before planting, mix in a balanced slow-release fertilizer (preferably organic), if indicated by your soil test.

                The soil of an established bed does not need to be turned or cultivated unless it becomes very compacted. Adding an inch or two of organic matter to the surface between plants every fall should be sufficient. Take care not to bury the “crowns” of the perennials.       

Planning and Layout

                To achieve the best results, some thought should go into planning your perennial garden before the plants are set in the ground. The plan can be as simple as arranging the pots on the ground before planting or as elaborate as a scale drawing. Groups of 3 or 5 of the same variety give the best show. Allow space for the new plants to spread (most plant labels offer suggested spacing requirements). Initially, you may want to fill in gaps with colorful annuals.

Planting

                If you can’t plant container-grown perennials right away remember to check them every day to see if they need water. Container-grown plants can be planted anytime you can work the soil. Before planting, water your perennials well and be sure to loosen any roots that encircle the pot. Plant the perennial at the same level as it was in the pot, gently firming the surrounding soil. Water in well. Continue to pay careful attention to watering until the plant is established. Water when soil begins to dry, rather than on an artificial or predetermined schedule. A layer of fine mulch (e.g. buckwheat hulls) between plants helps control weeds and retain moisture through periods of drought.

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Bio-inoculants

Bio-inoculants are living organisms containing strains of specific bacteria, fungi, or algae which:
- Take nitrogen from the air and make it available to plants- reducing the need for nitrogen fertilizer.
- make inorganic phosphate and micronutrients soluble and available to plants.
- collect and store available nutrients.
- enhance plant uptake of phosphorus and zinc.
- provide physical barriers against pathogens.
- stimulate plant growth.
- decompose organic residues.
Biological nitrogen-fixation
Atmospheric nitrogen is taken from the air-or "fixed"-by micro-organisms which live on some leguminous and non leguminous plants.
Rhizobium
These bacteria live in nodules on the roots of legumes. Legume seeds can be inoculated to encourage the growth of nitrogen fixing nodules.
Rhizobia:
- meet 80 to 90 percent of the nitrogen requirements of legume crops.
- increase production of legume crone.
- benefit successive crops.
- minimize the chance of crop failure.
- increase soil fertility.
- are cost effective.
- are pollution free.

 

Nodules on a legume plant

About 200 g of good quality rhizobium culture is enough to

An, treat 12-15 kg of seed. There are specific cultures for different crops. You can buy rhizobium inoculants from agricultural extension centers, agricultural universities, private dealers, and the National Biofertilizer Development Centre, Ghaziabad, Uttar Pradesh.

Azotobacter and Azospirillum

These bacteria fix atmospheric nitrogen in cereal crops. Azotobacter produce antifungal compounds against many plant pathogens and control nematode diseases. Azospirillum increase germination and improve vigour of young plants. One kg of seed needs 5 g of inoculants. This will fix 30 kg/ha of nitrogen per year.

Blue-green algae

Blue-green algae can fix 25-30 kg/ha of nitrogen per year. A paddy crop needs 10 kg/ha of algal powder, available from the National Biofertilizer Development Centre. Algal powder is not required after 3-4 years of continuous use in the field.

Blue-green algae in a paddy crop:

- produces 25-30 kg nitrogen (equivalent to 55-65 kg urea) per ha, and enhances yield 10 to 12 percent.
- is cost effective and pollution free.
- provides more oxygen to paddy roots.
- benefits the next crop.

Algae production

1 Prepare shallow trays (2 m x I m x 20 cm) of galvanized iron sheet. The size can be increased if more material is to be produced.
2 Spread 8-10 kg of soil and mix well with 200 g of super phosphate.
3 Add water to the trays (5 to 15 cm deep) depending on the rate of evaporation. The soil should be about neutral. If it is acidic, add lime.
4 After the soil has settled, sprinkle the algal culture on the surface of the standing water. Keep the trays in the open air, in direct sunlight.
5 Growth of the algae will be rapid in the hot summer months and in about 7 to 10 days they will form a thick mat. If the daily rate of evaporation is high, add water regularly. When the algal growth becomes sufficiently thick, stop watering.

Azolla

Azolla is a floating fresh water fern. It grows in stagnant water. The fern forms a green mat over the water surface. It readily decomposes to ammonia which is available to rice plants. Apply 10 kg of powdered, dry azolla fern per hectare.

Application Seed treatment-Rhizoblum and Azotobacter Top dressing-Rhizoblum, Azotobacter, PSM Crops Legumes-Rhizablum + PSM Cereal-Azotobacter + PSM Legumes mixed with nonlegumes-Rhizoblum + Azotobacter + PSM

For more information contact the National Biofertilizer Development Centre, CGO Complex 11, Ghaziabad Uttar Pradesh 201002, India.

Mycorrhiza

Mycorrhizas are fungi which live in association with the roots of crops. The fungi stimulate plant growth, help the plants use phosphate, and protect the plants from disease. One kg of crop seed needs 7-10 g of inoculants, available from Mycology and Plant Pathology Division, Indian Agricultural Research Institute, and the Department of Botany, Delhi University.

PSM

Phosphate solubilising micro-organisms (PSM) convert soil phosphorus into forms that plants can use. To use PSM, mix 3 kg of PSM, 50 kg of farmyard manure, and the crop seed. Drill them together.

Methods of application 

Bio-inoculants can be used two ways: as seed treatment and as top dressing in the soil. 

 

Seed treatment

Moisten the seed and sprinkle the inoculums at a rate of 5-10 g per kg of moist seed. Mix thoroughly and dry in the shade for an hour. So the inoculated seed immediately.

Top dressing

For legumes, mix 1.5 kg rhizobium or 0.5 kg Azotobacter or 3 kg PSM in 50 kg of farmyard manure or compost. Top dress.

For cereals and millets, use 2 kg of PSM.

Broadcasting

Mix 3 kg of PSM with 100 kg of farmyard manure and broadcast the granular mixture. Can be broadcast in a standing crop seed treatment

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Vermi-composting

What is vermi-composting?
Vermi-composting is the process by which earthworms convert organic waste into fertile manure. With a little knowledge of earthworms and an investment of time and some inexpensive materials, you can fertilize your garden with rich vermicompost.
Living composters
Earthworms live in the soil, mixing it, making it porous as they help decompose soil organic matter. Earthworm casts are the excrete of earthworms. These casts contain five times the nitrogen of ordinary soil, seven times the phosphorus, eleven times the potash, two times the calcium and magnesium, and eight times the actinomycetes (useful bacteria).
Earthworms:
- feed on soil and soil organic matter and convert it to compost, making the soil rich in nutrients.
- encourage growth of useful micro-organisms, which also make soil rich.
- aerate and pulverize soil.
- are natural tillers of the soil.
- make soil porous, improving drainage.
- increase the water-holding capacity of soil.
- produce enzymes, hormones, vitamins, and antibiotics, thereby increasing immunity of plants against some pests.
Advantages of vermi-compost over other fertilizers
- Low cost to produce
- Easy to use
- Not harmful to useful soil organisms
- Converts organic matter to useful plant food
- Source of income

Advantages of vermi-compost over other fertilizers

Earthworms suitable for vermi-composting there are two types of earthworm:

Surface feeders convert waste matter into humus. Surface feeders are needed for vermi-composting. Certain species introduced from Africa are very efficient humus producers. They can be bought from companies which produce vermin compost. Some important species: Eisenia foetida, Eudrilus eugivae, Perionyx excavates, Lumbricus rubellus.

Deep feeder move soil and humus around and aerate the soil. Most Indian earthworm species are deep-feeders and are not suitable for vermi-composting.

Materials required for vermi-composting for a 10-sq-m plot:

- Dry organic matter-200-300 kg
- Decomposed farmyard manure 300-400 kg
- Organic wastes-700-800 kg
- Earthworms-10,000
- Water-ready supply

Method of preparation

1 Erect a shed 5 m wide and 12 m long.
2 Under the roof of this shed, build a long, thin rectangular (1 m wide and 10 m long) bed of organic matter 15 cm deep.
3 On top of this, spread a layer of decomposed manure or biogas slurry 15 cm deep.
4 Moisten the bed with water and leave it for 48 hours.
5 Place earthworms uniformly at the rate of 1,000 per sq m on the top layer.

Raised bed

6 Spread a 20-cm layer of organic wastes, litter, etc., over the earthworms.

7 Cover with gunny cloth and sprinkle water regularly to keep the plot wet. During summer months, you might have to sprinkle water twice a day.

8 Turn the material after 30 days, cover it again with gunny cloth and keep it moist.

9 The whole material is converted to humus, called vermicompost, in 65-70 days.

10 You can build a second bed next to the first. Use the earthworms from the first bed to repeat the process. Two beds of this type will produce about 1 tone of vermin compost every 3 months. 

 

Cover and keep moist. 

Turn after 30 days.

 

Replace cover and keep moist.

Application of vermi-compost

Field-2. 5 tons per hectare
Pots-50 grams per pot
Trees-apply vermi-compost at the rate of 100-200 g per tree, or place 100-200 worms around the tree trunk.

Reproduction

Under ideal conditions, earthworms multiply 20 to 25 times in
65-70 days. Use a sieve to separate the vermi-compost from the earthworms.
Use the earthworms to repeat the above process to make vermi compost throughout the year.

Keep moist

- Surface-feeding earthworms can survive only if the surface soil is kept moist. This can be done with drip irrigation. (See

Efficient use of irrigation water.)

- Where surface soil dries out, apply vermicompost each year at the beginning of the rainy season.

Developing an earthworm population

You can develop an earthworm population by placing earthworms or worm casts in the soil. After this, it is not necessary to apply vermi-compost; simply apply organic matter which the worms will convert into compost.

Maintenance

Take care to maintain an optimum number of earthworms in your fields. Their population is adversely affected by:

- Use of chemical fertilizers.
- Use of certain pesticides against soil-borne pests.
- Inappropriate cultivation techniques, like use of rotary cultivators.
- Acidification of soil.
- Insufficient organic matter in the soil.

Earthworms are your friends. Protect them and nurture them in your fields. Adding vermi-compost and reducing the application of inorganic fertilizers will increase populations of deep burrowing earthworms, which turn over and aerate the soil.

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Compost making

Turn organic waste into compost for improved soil fertility and sustained crop production.
What is composting?
Composting is a big-chemical process in which micro-organisms decompose organic waste matter-crop residue, kitchen wastes, cow dung, and urine-into a soil-improving product called compost.
The final product is a uniform, black mass of rotten, nutrient rich manure.
Advantages of adding compost to soil
Compost:
- supplies nutrients.
- improves microbial activity, which helps release soil nutrients for use by plants.
- checks pollution from manure heaps and leaching of urine into the soil.
- reduces the need for chemical fertilizers which are costly and potentially damaging to the environment.
- increases the amount of organic carbon and nitrogen, improving physical properties of soil and allowing higher response to chemical fertilizers and higher crop yields.
- improves soil structure, improving drainage and making tillage easier.
- increases the water-holding capacity of soil.
- helps check wind erosion by improving soil structure.
Selection of site for composting
Your compost pit should be:
- easy to inspect.
- built on higher ground to avoid water logging.
- near the cattle shed and a source of water.
- located away from the road to avoid contamination by lead and other toxic metals which, in turn, could contaminate food crops affecting the health of humans and livestock.
Caution
Compost and farmyard manure are major sources of weed seeds. Weed seeds withstand partial decomposition, therefore, put only fully decomposed compost and farmyard manure on your fields.
Three methods for making compost
Indore method
Raw materials for composting
Plant residues-Mix plant residues, weeds, sugarcane tops, leaves, grass, wood ash, bran, etc. Chop and crush hard woody material
Dung-Collect dung and bedding of farm animals, including the urine-soaked mud from animal sheds.
Wood ash-Wood ash reduces compost acidity and adds potassium.
Water and air-Both are necessary for bacterial and fungal activity.
Size of the compost pit
Width 2 to 2.75 m
Depth 0.75 to 1 m (not more than 1 m)
Length 3 m or more as required.
Method of filling the pit
1 Spread raw material evenly in the pit in layers 7 cm thick.
2 Add a layer of wood ash (if available) along with urine and mud.
3 Next spread a 5-cm layer of bedding with cattle dung and soil. Sprinkle with water until moist.
4 Continue adding layers until the material is 30 cm above ground level. Apply water. The heap will shrink as it decomposes.
5 Turn over the heap three times. Moisten with water each time.

To aerate, dig out the compost . . .

 

And then put it back in the pit.

Turning

Decomposition needs proper mixing as well as circulation of water and air. You can ensure this by turning over the material three times:

First turning 10-15 days after filling the pit.
Second turning 15 days later.
Third fuming after 2 months.

At the third turning, you can take it out of the pit and put it back in. This helps the bacteria to take nitrogen out of the air. In regions of heavy rainfall, compost pits should be covered by a shed. Compost-making should be discontinued between June and September.

Bangalore method

Raw material same as for the Indore method.

Size of the pit
Width 2 m
Depth 1 m
Length 6 m

Method of filling the pit

1 Spread a 1 5-cm layer of farm refuse on the bottom of the pit and moisten this with water.
2 Follow this with a 5-cm layer of cattle dung and urine soaked mud.
3 Next apply a 2. 5- to 5-cm layer of soil.
4 Repeat the process until the heap is about 0.5 m above ground level.
The material decomposes within 8 to 9 months and the finished product is ready for use.

Nadep method (above ground)

Raw materials Waste organic material-about 1,500 kg. Cattle dung-90 to 100 kg (8-10 baskets) Dry-sieved soil-1,750 kg (120 baskets). Urine-soaked soil is most effective. Remove glass, stones, plastic, and other nondecomposable substances. Water-Enough to keep the pit moist. 

Nadep method (above ground)

Tank construction

Build a rectangular tank (3 m long, 2 m wide and I m high) made of brick walls and floor with mud mortar. Leave holes in the tank walls for aeration (about four holes along each side wall and two holes in each end wall). Plaster the inner walls and the bottom of the tank with a mud and cow-dung mixture.

Method of filling

First layer-15-cm compact layer of plant waste material.

Second layer-Cow-dung slurry: about 4 kg of cow dung mixed with 10 buckets of water (drench thoroughly).

Third layer-Add a 2-cm layer of fine, sieved soil (60 to 65 kg).

Keep adding layers in this way until the material is heaped 15 cm above the lip of the tank. Add another 7-cm layer of fine soil on top of the heap. Seal the tank with cow-dung plaster.

For best results

- Build a temporary shed of thatch and bamboo to shield your compost tank from direct sunlight and rain.

- After three to four months, digestion (composting) is complete. Do not disturb the pit during this crucial period.

- Compost is dark and has a pleasant smell. Sieve this compost through a thick mesh and it is ready to use.

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Soil Preparation & Planting, For Perennial Beds

Evaluate Your Site and Soil:

                Russell’s sells a full range of perennials to suit almost any site. Selecting plants to suit your conditions rather than fighting your site will result in more successful and pleasant gardening. Consider the following when making your selection:

                A) timing and hours of sunlight                  e) hardiness

                b) Soil moisture                                                                f) bloom time

                c) Height spread color and texture           g) winter drainage (e.g. lavender is often

                d) Maintenance requirements                      killed by winter wet rather than cold)

                Studies show that about 80% of all plant problems are related to poor soil. We highly recommend a soil test to determine the best amendments for your soil. Soil preparation generally takes place in the spring or fall. Whatever the season, don’t work the ground if it is too wet or too dry. To determine if it is a good time to dig, squeeze a fistful of soil in your hand; it should form a ball which crumbles easily at a touch. The site you choose should be fairly level, well-drained and a manageable size.

Soil Preparation

                Starting a flower bed from scratch involves a lot of hard work, but pays off in the form of healthier, more productive plants. Begin by removing the layer of sod, weeds, or whatever else might be growing there. Get rid of rocks and loosen the soil to a depth of eight to twelve inches with a spading fork or nursery spade. (Obviously this work is made a lot easier if you have a rot tiller!)  “Double-digging” is an effective method of soil preparation whereby the soil is worked to a depth of almost two feet. Hard-packed subsoil should at least be broken up with a pitchfork. Avoid walking on your soil after digging.

The ideal soil for most perennials is well-drained, loamy, high in organic matter,

and with a neutral to slightly acidic (pH 6.0 to 7.5). Very few sites are blessed with such perfect conditions, so when you dig, do what you can to improve the soil. The addition of organic matter improves drainage, aeration, moisture retention, and nutrient availability.

                Spread a generous layer (up to 6 inches) of compost or well-rotted manure over the newly-spaded bed. Take care when using manure. Fresh manure should be composted or applied the fall prior to planting to reduce the risk of burning tender roots. Peat does not add nutrients but can improve soil structure and help prevent compaction.

                To raise the soil pH of average garden soil one point, apply pelletized lime at a rate of about 4 lbs/ 100 sq. ft.  Very sandy soil needs less lime, while heavy clay soil requires about 30% more. All these amendments should be thoroughly mixed into the soil . Rake the bed level, allow the soil to settle, and, just before planting, mix in a balanced slow-release fertilizer (preferably organic), if indicated by your soil test.

                The soil of an established bed does not need to be turned or cultivated unless it becomes very compacted. Adding an inch or two of organic matter to the surface between plants every fall should be sufficient. Take care not to bury the “crowns” of the perennials.       

Planning and Layout

                To achieve the best results, some thought should go into planning your perennial garden before the plants are set in the ground. The plan can be as simple as arranging the pots on the ground before planting or as elaborate as a scale drawing. Groups of 3 or 5 of the same variety give the best show. Allow space for the new plants to spread (most plant labels offer suggested spacing requirements). Initially, you may want to fill in gaps with colorful annuals.

Planting

                If you can’t plant container-grown perennials right away remember to check them every day to see if they need water. Container-grown plants can be planted anytime you can work the soil. Before planting, water your perennials well and be sure to loosen any roots that encircle the pot. Plant the perennial at the same level as it was in the pot, gently firming the surrounding soil. Water in well. Continue to pay careful attention to watering until the plant is established. Water when soil begins to dry, rather than on an artificial or predetermined schedule. A layer of fine mulch (e.g. buckwheat hulls) between plants helps control weeds and retain moisture through periods of drought.

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Multipurpose trees and shrubs

Selection criteria

Select tree species and varieties that have these features:

- Adaptability to local climatic conditions
- Multiple uses high demand and value of the produce
- Fast growth, short time to harvest
- Vigorous re growth after cutting
- Nitrogen-fixing ability
- Ability to improve soil
- Compatible with ground vegetation
- Easy management

Fuel and fodder collection is hard, time-consuming work for farm women. Multipurpose trees, grown on the farm in an organized manner, can significantly improve farm incomes by providing food, fodder, fuel wood, timber, gum, and building and fence poles, while reducing drudgery for farm women.

Trees consume carbon dioxide and release vital oxygen, maintain cool weather, increase rainfall, and protect soil from erosion and loss of productivity.

Trees on farm land

Suitable multipurpose trees can be incorporated on farm lands for a variety of uses.

Mainly protective
Windbreaks and shelter belts

In places where wind erosion is severe, like arid and desert areas, wind breaks and shelter belts of trees, such as Israeli babul, can reduce erosion.

Live hedges

Species, like vilayati babul and brij babul, can be grown as hedges around fields. They can serve as animal barriers, reduce soil erosion, and provide fodder, timber, and fuel wood. 

Trees have many uses.

Soil conservation

Species, like desi babul, ardu, and shish am, are reported to be good soil binders and help conserve soil.

Mainly productive

Boundary planting

Many tree species, such as eucalyptus, can be grown around farm boundaries for additional returns without adversely affecting crop yields. Care must be taken in site selection to avoid crop shading. Tree roots should be pruned by digging a trench along the crop boundary.

Agri-silvipasture, agri-horticulture

Forest trees, like shish am, anjan, subabul, and fruit trees, like aonla, guava, mulberry, and ber, can be introduced at suitable spacings in agricultural systems to stabilize the farm system and provide additional returns.

Silvipasture, hortipasture

As above, many of the same forest and fruit trees can be introduced in pastures and grasslands.

Home gardens

In humid regions, a mixture of many trees and shrubs in a multitier system can be profitable and ecologically sustainable.

Alley cropping

Hedges of subabul and gliricidia can be grown 8-10 m apart. Crops can be planted between the hedges. The hedges should be pruned regularly and the pruning’s used as mulch or fodder.

Multipurpose woodlots

Multipurpose trees, like babul, desi siris, shish am, eucalyptus, sesbania, subabul, ber, casuarinas, neem, and kathal, can be planted on community bunds for fuel wood, charcoal, timber, poles, medicine, gum, pulp, and fodder

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