Soil Preparation & Planting, For Perennial Beds

Evaluate Your Site and Soil:

                Russell’s sells a full range of perennials to suit almost any site. Selecting plants to suit your conditions rather than fighting your site will result in more successful and pleasant gardening. Consider the following when making your selection:

                A) timing and hours of sunlight                  e) hardiness

                b) Soil moisture                                                                f) bloom time

                c) Height spread color and texture           g) winter drainage (e.g. lavender is often

                d) Maintenance requirements                      killed by winter wet rather than cold)

                Studies show that about 80% of all plant problems are related to poor soil. We highly recommend a soil test to determine the best amendments for your soil. Soil preparation generally takes place in the spring or fall. Whatever the season, don’t work the ground if it is too wet or too dry. To determine if it is a good time to dig, squeeze a fistful of soil in your hand; it should form a ball which crumbles easily at a touch. The site you choose should be fairly level, well-drained and a manageable size.

Soil Preparation

                Starting a flower bed from scratch involves a lot of hard work, but pays off in the form of healthier, more productive plants. Begin by removing the layer of sod, weeds, or whatever else might be growing there. Get rid of rocks and loosen the soil to a depth of eight to twelve inches with a spading fork or nursery spade. (Obviously this work is made a lot easier if you have a rot tiller!)  “Double-digging” is an effective method of soil preparation whereby the soil is worked to a depth of almost two feet. Hard-packed subsoil should at least be broken up with a pitchfork. Avoid walking on your soil after digging.

The ideal soil for most perennials is well-drained, loamy, high in organic matter,

and with a neutral to slightly acidic (pH 6.0 to 7.5). Very few sites are blessed with such perfect conditions, so when you dig, do what you can to improve the soil. The addition of organic matter improves drainage, aeration, moisture retention, and nutrient availability.

                Spread a generous layer (up to 6 inches) of compost or well-rotted manure over the newly-spaded bed. Take care when using manure. Fresh manure should be composted or applied the fall prior to planting to reduce the risk of burning tender roots. Peat does not add nutrients but can improve soil structure and help prevent compaction.

                To raise the soil pH of average garden soil one point, apply pelletized lime at a rate of about 4 lbs/ 100 sq. ft.  Very sandy soil needs less lime, while heavy clay soil requires about 30% more. All these amendments should be thoroughly mixed into the soil . Rake the bed level, allow the soil to settle, and, just before planting, mix in a balanced slow-release fertilizer (preferably organic), if indicated by your soil test.

                The soil of an established bed does not need to be turned or cultivated unless it becomes very compacted. Adding an inch or two of organic matter to the surface between plants every fall should be sufficient. Take care not to bury the “crowns” of the perennials.       

Planning and Layout

                To achieve the best results, some thought should go into planning your perennial garden before the plants are set in the ground. The plan can be as simple as arranging the pots on the ground before planting or as elaborate as a scale drawing. Groups of 3 or 5 of the same variety give the best show. Allow space for the new plants to spread (most plant labels offer suggested spacing requirements). Initially, you may want to fill in gaps with colorful annuals.

Planting

                If you can’t plant container-grown perennials right away remember to check them every day to see if they need water. Container-grown plants can be planted anytime you can work the soil. Before planting, water your perennials well and be sure to loosen any roots that encircle the pot. Plant the perennial at the same level as it was in the pot, gently firming the surrounding soil. Water in well. Continue to pay careful attention to watering until the plant is established. Water when soil begins to dry, rather than on an artificial or predetermined schedule. A layer of fine mulch (e.g. buckwheat hulls) between plants helps control weeds and retain moisture through periods of drought.

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